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in Reviews By Mhairi Macfarlane
On a dark, rainy evening it would be easy to miss Shish Mahal hiding behind a pedestrian crossing in Leyton High Road because of the maroon-coloured façade and darkly-lit windows.
Only a small neon “open” sign invited me in, but once inside, the smartly-dressed staff were much more welcoming than first impressions and my companion and I were quickly shown to a cosy booth.
The menu was an extensive selection of traditional Tandoori or Tikka specialities along with what they termed as “old time favourites” such as Chicken or Lamb Balti for more conventional curry fans.
Overwhelmed by the choice, manager Syed Meah, known to regulars as “Martin”, recommended the Sizzling Garlic King Prawns (£5.50) to start, and my companion ordered a Mixed Starter (£4.95).
The sizzling prawns - a firm favourite with regulars I was told - were exceptional. Brought out with great ceremony on sizzling hot plates, a gigantic prawn was presented on a bed of salad, deliciously spicy, with just a little garlic.
The mixed starter got us off to an equally impressive start, with a selection of meats on a hot grill including, lamb kebab, spiced sausage, and chicken Tikka, all bursting with flavour and spices and easily enough for two.
After adjusting our belts, I tried the “Shish Mahal Special” (£9.95) for the main - a dish of diced lamb barbecued in a clay oven. I savoured the flavours of the tender meat and spices without being overwhelmed by heat, but was a little underwhelmed by the dish compared with with the starters.
My partner had the King Prawn Chilli Masala (£9.95), which was fairly mild, but our waiter seemed concerned about the food being too hot for our delicate palates, so you could request more kick if desired.
A side of Peshwari Naan was one of the best I have ever tasted - bursting with sweet coconut - and the Sag Aloo was also a high standard.
One of the most pleasant things about the meal was that none of the dishes were dripping in fat, which the waiter attributed to cooking many of the dishes with olive oil rather than ghee.
Reassured by this and with a vast array of ice creams and desserts on offer, I thought it would be rude not to try one.
We shared a Tiramasu - which was a perfectly sweet end to a rather delicious meal.
The restaurant was cosy but a little bit too quiet, although we were told it gets more lively on a Saturday night.
The meal came to just over £50, including a bottle of wine. Appetisers start at under £1 and mains at £4.20.
Shish Mahal has been open for more than 25 years and its longevity is testament to the high quality of the food and its tentative staff who made us feel very welcome.
With a bit more fanfare to let people know that it is there, it could have many more successful years in Leyton.
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