Petch Sayam - Leytonstone

2:41pm Wednesday 21st November 2007

GOING to an ethnic restaurant should be an experience.

Not just a place to eat, relax and socialise, but somewhere that feels like you've stepped outside your normal reality and gone on a virtual trip to the country the food came from.

Petch Sayam certainly does this, with an interior chock full of intricately-carved woodwork, including an entire pastoral scene etched into every tabletop, a table under a tree, romantic tealights scattered around, Thai music and waitresses in authentic dress, despite the chilly November air outside.

But sadly, beautiful as they look, and pleasant as they are, those serving are way too enthusiastic for comfort.

They lurked in a line at the front of the restaurant, watching their charges like hawks, waiting for any opportunity to serve, whether you really want them to or not.

When ordering, we were advised we would get both courses together as the kitchen was closing in ten minutes.

Our meals arrived promptly and no sooner were they eaten than they were whisked away and replaced with a bill.

Furthermore, while we were eating, the waitresses took down all the tealights and even got down on their knees and started sweeping up the floor.

When they are not trying to shoo you out of the door, they hover waiting for you to take a few sips out of your glass, so they can fill it up again and offer you another beer.

This may well be an authentic Thai experience, but is one that I wish had not been imported, particularly when you're out for a relaxing meal on a Friday night.

Now it has to be said we arrived fairly late, at 10.15pm, but as it stays open until 11pm, we thought this would be no problem.

It soon became clear that closing time meant closing time, and as it approached we were getting increasingly unfriendly looks from staff.

But the food was gorgeous and, we suspect, closer to real Thai than you usually get.

We had the mixed starter, a perfect choice for the indecisive, as well as being good to share, with chilli and lemon king prawns, Pak Tod, spring rolls and sesame prawn toast.

The Pak Tod batter, so often heavy and greasy, was light as a feather and a deli-ght to eat, and our only gripe was the chilli in the prawns was almost overwhelming, even for chilli lovers.

Continuing the theme, the Kaeng Daeng Nua (beef red curry) with thai aubergines, bamboo shoots, green pepper and thai basil was as hot as a green curry in other places but was beautifully spiced.

The Ped Pad Med Mamu-ang, a duck breast stir-fry with cashew nuts, onion, peppers, mushroom and soy sau-ce was garnished with roast chilli and was more delicate, spicy and rich taste. In both cases the meat was tender.

Petch Sayam is good value and tasty Thai treat for early diners, but beware arriving late.

PETCH SAYAM
682 High Road,
Leytonstone
E11 3AA Tel: 8556 6821

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