Kervan Sofrasi Edmonton (from East London and West Essex Guardian Series)

THERE's a restaurant review on this website which starts off by going on about preferring 'the cuisines of countries which have suffered brutal repression at the hand of the British Empire'.

So if that sort of pretentious university bar, let's-change-the-world-but-we'll-have-another-subsidised-pint-first political clap-trap slips though, I'm sure I can get away with mentioning former Middlesbrough striker Bernie Slaven in this one.

Edmonton has a large Turkish population, maybe not as much as Stoke Newington or Dalston for example, but enough to have a big influence.

So when I saw Kervan Sofrasi I guessed it could be quite authentic, and judging by the number of Turkish customers during my visit on a rainy Friday evening my hunch was correct.

The restaurant is big and, although fairly close to Edmonton Green shopping centre, is in a mainly residential area so it's bright lights really stand out. There is an undercover outdoor dining area at the front.

The tables are arranged in a bench style which means you could end up sharing, but with the busy atmosphere of the place this somehow adds to the vibe.

I noticed the waiters had put dividers on some of the tables, like big versions of the ones at supermarket checkouts, to give some diners a bit more privacy. Again, this was a bit quirky but seemed to work.

As someone who is such a good customer of his local takeaway that he gets a Christmas card from the owner, I'd like to think I know a bit about kebabs.

I'm not saying it makes me a culinary expert, just that I know what can make or break a kebab dining experience - and Kervan passed with flying colours on all counts.

Both my wife and I chose the lamb and chicken mixed doner (£4 small, £5 large). The meat and rice were served on one plate with the salad and bread separately.

The meat was spot on, cooked well, not too greasy and far removed from some of the rubbery offerings served up in lesser establishments.

The salad was fresh, crisp and drizzled with olive oil. We ordered some humous as a starter and the courses merged when the main meals arrived.

Kervan does a wide range of other kebabs cooked on the charcoal grill., including a Kervan Special which is listed as being a 'mixture of the whole kebab menu'.

The menu also features Turkish pizza, meze, fish and stews. So why, with so much to choose from, did we go for the doner? It was what we wanted, and they were so good that it was a special meal.

Out two children had chips and lamb doner meat (£4) which were more than enough for an adult. They wore their Turkey football shirts, bought on a holiday a couple of years ago, but it didn't bring the discount on the bill I was hoping for.

The place was full and the waiters were working flat out so perhaps they didn't have time to notice.

For drinks, we stuck to coke and mineral water (£1 each). I also tried Ayran, a milky, slightly salty drink which the waiter described as 'Turkish milkshake'. I didn't see any alcohol listed on the menu.

People from the Mediterranean region always seem very family oriented and children are most welcome at Kervan.

There is even a separate children's play area which my two explored for a while. According to my wife, a childcare professional, it was good idea but would be much improved by more toys and play equipment.

As far as authenticity goes, Kervan reminded me of a kebab restaurant we once visited in the Turkish controlled part of Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus. The division of Cyprus is highly sensitive so I'm not making any political points, it's just that Kervan seems to be the real deal.

If you want an intimate meal with your partner then may this isn't the place for you, but it is lively, atmospheric, the service is good and the food is of excellent quality and value for money.

The bill came to £24.50. If you've managed to get this far you might be wondering about Bernie Slaven. One of the waiters was dead ringer for the Glaswegian who was nick-named 'Wolfman' during his playing days.

As he, and no doubt most of the readers, have never heard of Slaven - and quite likely don't care - I've included a picture.

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