Umu - Mayfair

12:59pm Wednesday 25th June 2008

IF UMU was a man, I'd agree to marry him.

Alluring and intelligent, cool but not arrogant, stylish yet understated and someone you can trust your secrets with.

Unfortunately such people are few and far between. And, although we inhabit one of the most eclectic cities in the world, so are restaurants like Umu.

This exclusive haven of Japanese cuisine is hidden away down a small alley in the heart of Mayfair.

In fact, you only realise it's there when you're standing right in front of it, but even then it's not obvious where the door is.

To get in you have to place your hand on an electric pad, the coolest thing I have seen outside a James Bond film.

And only then does a door slowly slide open and you are welcomed into the world - and it is a different world - of Umu.

Directly translated, Umu means born of nature' and there isn't a better word to describe the authentic Kyoto cuisine which is served up here under the leadership of Ichiro Kubota.

The emphasis is on balance and restraint, on savouring the beautifully crafted dishes which are delivered to your table in an equally beautifully choreographed fashion.

Umu claims every member of its team has taken "a full journey through the culture, etiquette and philosophy behind Japanese cuisine." And indeed, if that is your food, this is your restaurant.

The staff are attentive and the service is sublime. In addition, they take the time to explain exactly how each dish is prepared.

And who wouldn't be interested to know more when a hoba leaf turns up at your table with the most delicious slivers of Wagyu beef sitting enticingly inside it. I didn't know whether to eat it, or take a photograph.

Customers can choose from Kaiseki - a traditional Japanese tasting menu - a la carte or set lunch menus.

Its exquisite seared tuna belly crops up in most reviews you will ever read about this place, as does descriptions of its subtle, yet luxurious surroundings and sake menu, which has more than 70 labels. The wine list is also 28 pages long.

It's not difficult to see why Umu is through to the finals of the Evening Standard Restaurant Awards, vying against five others for the title of Oriental Restaurant of the Year.

I'd describe a night out here as more of an event than a dining experience.

And although many of us may be tightening our belts thanks to the credit crunch, this place is definitely worth letting out a couple of notches for.

UMU
14-16 Bruton Place,
London,
W1J 6LX
Tel: 020 7499 8881

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