City of London Cemetery & Crematorium – 2.5 miles

12:05pm Monday 30th April 2007

The City of London Cemetery is thought to have developed into England's most impressive cemetery garden landscape and is recognised as one of the most significant sites of its kind in the world.

This week's walk follows one which was recommended to me by David McCarthy, the Superintendent, who accompanied me and supplied much useful information.

I have, in the notes below, tended to concentrate on the memorials but it needs to be remembered that the gardens are stunning and will reward many repeat visits.

The cemetery opened in 1856 as a result of the pressures on graveyards in Central London. Many of the most interesting memorials date from those Victorian times when the middle classes had a highly developed attitude to commemorating death.

Here you can find examples of all their symbols: the veiled urn; broken column; clasped hands; open testament; anchor and chain; ivy; torch; and many more.

It goes without saying that, above all, this is a place where the bereaved can find solace and, when walking around, we should be sure to respect their needs.

1. Enter the main gates and go forward on the middle of three roads, Chapel Avenue.

The first monument on the left is to William Haywood.

He was the engineer who in 1854 was faced with solving the problem of grossly overcrowded churchyards in the City of London - in some places as many as ten coffins were resting one on top of another, graves were barely covered with earth and body snatching was rife.

Haywood's most famous work was probably the Holborn Viaduct but he was passionately committed to improving the state of public health and he recommended the purchase of the site and it is his original design which largely influences what we see today.

2. At the first roundabout take the second left (Central Avenue. On the right is one of the finest memorials you will see in any cemetery: John Vigiland was a seaman, he had died and been buried in an African military cemetery.

His father had his body brought home and reburied here, commissioning this beautiful tribute in Sicilian marble.

Also on the right is the grave of George Binks who, as foreman ropemaker of the Woolwich Dockyard, invented the wire rope in the mid 1830s.

Note that the Church has some lighter coloured stone which replaced WW2 bomb damage.

3. At the Church roundabout, take the fourth turning on the left (Belfry Rd). After a few metres on the right is the white cross marking the grave of Ann Everest, Winston Churchill's nurse.

4. Take second turning right (Anchor Rd) On either side of Anchor Road are the only above ground vaults in the cemetery.

5. Go clockwise round the Chapel and take the second left to continue down St Andrews Road 6. Go left. Ahead is a semi-circular row of arches.

The outer wings are the Columbarium which contain niches for the ashes of those who have been cremated, they flank the last Catacombs built in London housing stone coffins.

7. Continue back up to St Andrews road and turn left.

8. Go left and fork right (Cheethams Rd) to the Traditional Crematorium.

9. Take the second left (Gardens Way). The grave of football legend Bobby Moore can be found just beyond this turning by following a narrow path to a magnolia tree which is usually festooned with flags 10. Take the first right on Memorial Gardens Gardens Way. On the left in front of the circular rose garden you will see a plaque commemorating one of two VCs buried in the cemetery.

John Joseph was one of the first cohort to be awarded the Victoria Cross when it was introduced in 1857.

Similar plaques on right and left commemorate Mary Ann Nichols and Catherine Eddows both victims of Jack the Ripper in 1888 11. Take the first right along Willow Road 12. Take the first left (Woodland Avenue) On the right hand side there is an area devoted to woodland burial, using natural materials for coffins and unmarked graves 13. Go to the end and turn right along South Boundary Road. Here the road runs parallel with the railway and it was originally planned that coffins from central London could be delivered by rail.

14. Continue, swinging right into South Gate Road On the right are the twin pink marble graves of Sergeants Bentley and Tucker, two of three unarmed policemen who were killed in the line of duty on 16 December 1910.

Their murder led to the famous Sidney Street siege overseen by the then Home Secretary, Winston Churchill several weeks later.

15. Go clockwise round Stacey's Circle, named after the first superintendent, and take the second exit along St Dionis Road. On the left are a war memorial and military graves.

16. Take the first left along Central Avenue There are 38 memorials to churches in the cemetery, most are along this section.

When the cemetery was opened the remains of those buried in many London churchyards were disinterred and removed here and these memorials mark the points of reburial.

On the left for instance is that of St Helens, Bishopsgate. The memorial indicates that the remains of eighteen generations of parishioners are buried on the spot.

This monument also mentions one of those by name: Robert Hooke (1635-1703) who was a great scientist and architect.

The most imposing of the church monuments is that of St Andrew's and St Sepulchre's. It is further along on the left and is surrounded by railings.

Originally 12,000 people were buried here but more remains were discovered in the church's vaults and room had to be found for an additional 3,000.

Just before reaching the final junction, on the left is the Lord Shiva memorial for Hindus.

17. Continue to the Great Circle from which you can see all the major buildings, go left to return to the entrance.

Walkers' Notebook

Starting Point/Parking: The entrance to the Cemetery is in Aldersbrook Road (A116) at the South-east corner of Wanstead Flats.

There is a convenient car-parking area opposite Merlin Road and alongside the pond. This avoids parking in the cemetery itself.

Time: Two hours

Terrain: all good surfaced drives

Suitability for Dogs: dogs (except guide dogs) are not allowed

Near: Wanstead and Aldersbrook

Refreshments: There is a café at the main entrance

Public Toilets: there are several toilets on the route.

Public Transport: within a few minutes walk from Woodgrange and Manor Park rail stations. Bus service 101 from Wanstead Tube station passes the entrance.

More Information: The City of London Corporation has published two books: The Cemetery in a Garden and The Heritage Brochure which contain a mass of interesting about the Cemetery and Crematorium.

The latter was written by David McCarthy, the Superintendent, who conducts regular Sunday tours. These tours are free but you have to book, telephone 020 8530 2151

If you would like to support the work of the Ramblers Association you can join a number of local groups. All also offer a regular programme of walks with leaders which you can obtain free of charge.

West Essex Group operates four walks of varying distances every week (020 8529 6265). The Redbridge Group has fewer but more adventurous walks, it also coordinates car lifts to the starting points (01708 456 771).

The Lea Valley Friends group specialise in shorter walks of 3 to 4 miles (020 8529 7328).

Len Banister has written Drive and Stroll in Essex which contains 20 circular walks and contributed to Pub Walks for Motorists: Essex, Suffolk & Norfolk - both are published by Countryside Books.

Click here to download the map

Around the site