A few things catch the eye when first browsing the menu at the newly renovated King William IV gastropub in the High Road, Chigwell. A Wagyu beef burger for instance - an intensely marbled and succulent piece of Japanese meat, mercilessly ground up and forced between two buns. Then there is Cropwell Bishop custard – custard, Richard – sitting next to the fillet steak. There is the option to chuck half a lobster tail on top of both of these dishes. Then there is the number of national cuisines present. Italian, Thai, Chinese, British, French and more are all here, a veritable United Nations of food.

These mixed impressions create concern. Is the King William IV, popular with the TOWIE crowd, making menu decisions based on style over substance, playing to the Insta-happy, selfie-taking social media crowd?

The fear conjured up, of image trumping flavour, thankfully did not play out. It was clear from my partner’s first supremely balanced espresso Martini, giving way to sweet caramel after the initial, welcome blast of strong coffee, that our tastebuds were indeed top priority.

A small bowl of mixed tortilla chips was a happy punctuation to an overly-long wait to make our first food order, something made to seem longer by the shopping channel Muzak playing throughout. Despite being rather chalky and soft, the herby and savoury nuggets went down fantastically with a pint of smooth Vedett beer, although they were perhaps more addictive than an actual wholesome eating experience.

After the initial wait, the small but ever-friendly and clearly popular staff brought each dish promptly. Our two autumnal starters simultaneously complemented and remedied the chill night air outside. My vegetarian partner’s thyme-roasted Portobello mushrooms in a Cropwell Bishop sauce on rustic toast were a triumph, the fungi expertly seasoned in their seductively smooth sauce, the nutty bread adding welcome extra texture.

My Black Angus bresaola, thinly sliced beef with candied walnuts and thyme goats curd, certainly would deserve the rustic label. Although the promised watercress and lemon oil dressing seemed absent from the plate, and the goats cheese occasionally lumped everything together and threatened to overwhelm, the underlying idea shone through. The sweet nutty notes enhanced the delicate yet deep flavour of the beef, creating an intriguingly complex yet reassuring mouthful.

The selected mains, an easy choice for the vegetarian but a pleasingly difficult one for the omnivore, continued in this confident vein. For almost £20, there was a fleeting instant when the pan-roasted lamb rump seemed too small for the plate. The feeling dropped away as soon as it was tasted however, the perfectly cooked meat combining with roast beetroot, asparagus and perfect – perfect – gnocchi for a truly sumptuous mouthful. Yes, perhaps the jus was a little too sweet, maybe the monolithic central beetroot was a bit on the big side and the reason for two miniscule purple flowers on the plate is yet to emerge, but the dish was as rich and hearty as a main course wants to be.

The halloumi fish and chips was equally assured. The flaky cutting of the cheese and the tartar sauce conjured the true sense of Friday afternoon cod in a bustling and steamed-up chippy, but the cheese’s addictive, upfront flavour suggested exciting new ideas. Sure to be a popular choice for long-term vegetarians, it could also be a helpful Segway into meat-free meals for those cutting out animals from their diets.

Unfortunately, the dessert menu failed to live up to what came before. From a very basic selection came a lemon tart so citrusy it went past cleansing the palate to full on bleaching it, and a rather perfunctory cheese board, lacking a proper chutney.

The last minute missteps failed to dull the experience, however, and we were maintained by the final sips of a subtle yet juicy Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, a mid-price entry on a reasonable wine list. Ultimately, our initial reservations were beaten away by wave after wave of well-balanced flavours and confident ideas. The renovated King William IV is sure to keep its current fans and looks set to find some new ones.

Rating: 4/5