THE Travellers Friend is in Woodford High Road, near the junction with Inman's Lane.

Before the visit I would have told you that the Travellers Friend would comfortably earn a four-glass award. It has long been a favourite of mine indeed, it was inside this very pub that the Editor of Guardian Newspapers offered me the job of reporting on local hostelries.

Perhaps such a long affectionate relationship makes one less sensitive to blemishes.

On the occasion of the inspection I was accompanied by four or five apprentices who had been apprised of the treat that was in store for them.

The Friend makes no concessions to modernity (with the exception of air conditioning). Its panelled interior, superb central bar with mobile glass panels and varnished linoleum floor in the two small dim drinking areas could easily have housed Dickens and his note books. Even the lamps are encased in lanterns.

There are a couple of tables outside and a car park which can just about accommodate six cars.

My colleagues were less enthusiastic. When I commented on the profusion of different types of chair, they singled out a plastic school chair which formed part of the repertoire. When I extolled the simple comfort, they pointed out a bench from which foam was exploding along a split.

Even I had to admit that the place was now overloaded with artefacts: old beer bottles, ash trays, jugs, mirrors. The landlady deals in these things over the internet and keeps the stock on the walls.

The range and quality of the beer were excellent and at £2.05 a pint it was very reasonably priced. An even better bargain was to be had with a four pint pitcher of London Pride at £6.85.

All this together with beer festivals and visits by jazz groups make the Travellers Friend still a very attractive pub.

Travellers Friend