Relax in the radiant Riviera

Right on the French border the town of San Remo has a wonderful climate because it is tucked away behind the Alps and is protected from the wind, so you're sure of a warm welcome.

Your initial impressions of this place may be of picture postcard views with beautiful flowers, palm trees, blue skies and but there's a lot more to San Remo than first meets the eye.

By the time you've visited its casino, gothic churches, an Impressionist artist's home, some old village ruins destroyed by an earthquake, a villa belonging to one of the world's best known scientists and botanical gardens frequented by Queen Victoria, you'll be inspired by its virtues.

The beginning of the old town here is very charming in a ramshackle, old fashioned kind of way. It is full of abandoned Roman sites and medieval architecture such as the 17th century baroque San Siro cathedral. Many of the houses are painted cream, pink and white with balconies and wooden shutters at the windows. The streets are cobbled and often winding, leading you into the shadows of surprising, secret alcoves with arched bridges many of which have been built as supports to ensure buildings don't fall down.

You can visit the delightfully elegant villa which was home to Alfred Nobel, who lived in San Remo with his six black Russian horses. Most people associate the great scientist with the Nobel peace prize, but few would credit him with the invention of nitro glycerine otherwise known as dynamite. Of course he intended it for peaceful purposes but things don't always work out the way you intend them to.

His villa is one of the highlights of a visit here. It has spectacular painted ceilings and tiled verandas. The villa was frequently visited by Russian leader Gorbachev who used it for conferences for his work.

Downstairs there is a museum dedicated to his life. It includes the story of nitro-glycerine and there's an impressive list of the names of all the Nobel prize winners presented for their achievements for peace, medicine and literature. Upstairs there is the story of his personal life. He remained close to his girlfriend but never married so presumably "You think more of that dynamite than you do of me," was a popular refrain in the Nobel household.

San Remo is famous for the Casino Municipale which is is one of only four in the whole of Italy. It is thought by many to be more elegant and sophisticated than the one in Monaco. If gambling is your thing there are all the usual ways to gamble your euros such as roulette, chemin de fer, trente et quarante, poker, black jack, slot machines, backgammon and gin rummy.

During the hair raising drive to Bussana Vecchia, which translates as the old village, you may be convinced that you will meet your maker, whether it be via a head-on collision with another car coming around one of the many tight bends or careering over the edge of the many sheer cliffs which were a feature of the jouney there.

The village in question was hit by an earthquake in 1887 and legend has it that when it happened people went into the old church on the hill to pray for protection but the roof fell in and they all died. Those who stood outside panicking survived. Such is life.

The village was neglected for many years after the quake until the 1960s, when artists decided to inhabit it. Nowadays it looks like a lost world trapped in a time warp where artists still paint and listen to music, looking down across the villages, mountains and seascapes below.

The Guardini Botanici Hanbury is considered to include one of the most beautiful English gardens in Europe. It was founded by Thomas Hanbury a merchant tea planter who made his money in India and stopped off in San Remo.

He fell in love with the place and who could blame him? The garden also features an amazingly decorative wooden carved Indian mausoleum. There are an amazing variety of tropical and Mediterranean plants. Queen Victoria visited here and the mosaic of Marco Polo at the entrance of the Conference Hall is truly stunning.

The Conference Hall is most notable for its views. On one side is the balcony terrace where you can see sculptures, trees, plants, marble tiles, mosaics, paintings, architecture and a beautiful coastline sea view. The other side has distant views of Monaco and Monte Carlo.

The garden contains the rare sight of a flowering Agave Attenata a cactus that is indigenous to Mexico and few have survived the winters there. Sitting in the terrace cafe at the bottom of the garden, sipping a cappuccino with the sun on your face and the sound of waves lapping gently, it seemed there were few more tranquil places on earth. This is an experience not be missed.

By way of complete contrast a visit to Saint Anonio's church, where the Renaissance arrived 100 years later than anywhere else, is a dark, gothic and spiritual experience where the light from stained glass windows could make you believe in God, if you don't already.

For art lovers there is the Pompeo Mariani Cultural Centre. The Impressionist painter's house is open to visitors who can book visits by calling (+39) 0184260176. or visiting www.foundazionpompeomariani.com It is set in a beautiful garden with terrace views across the sea. Claude Monet, a close friend of his came here in 1884 and painted The Lovers, a painting of two trees entwined as if in an embrace.

You can still see the trees there today and the inside of the original part of the Mariani cottage.

His studio at the bottom of the garden has all its original features but sadly not his origianl paintings, so you can't walk out with one tucked under your arm as a valuable souvenir. But the memories you'll take away from San Remo will be priceless.

Travel information

Ryanair runs daily flights from Stansted to Genoa. There is no set price for a return ticket. The fares vary greatly from day to day so check.

The average fare on all Ryanair routes is £28 one way (excl. taxes and charges) and the fare offer they are are currently running is for flights on www.ryanair.com from 79p one way excl taxes.