Ackermans Chocolates - the lost London shop loved by royals

Ackermans Chocolates in Goldhurst Terrace was founded by Werner and Lotte Ackerman - but closed two decades ago after operating for 50 years.

In pre-war Berlin, Werner was a lawyer while Lotte was a trained pianist.

But when Hitler rose to power in the 1930s, their future in Germany looked bleak.

Lotte’s Kempinski relatives provided a vital lifeline - Kempinski’s was a household name, a catering and wine empire which served thousands of Berliners in a string of establishments.

The Royal Warrant on a box of Ackermans chocolates acknowledged tem as a supplier to The Queen Mother. (Image: Courtesy of Nicholas Rose)

Co-owner Hans Kempinski had researched escape routes abroad as Hitler came to power, and in 1935 he obtained a permit from the UK Home Office to open a restaurant in Swallow Street, Piccadilly, serving German specialities.

This allowed him to bring over staff from Germany, including his son Gerhard and daughter-in-law Mela.

The Ackermans were also offered employment in the London restaurant, and with it the chance to escape.

Lotte learned her confectionary skills at Kempinskis in Berlin which allowed her to leave Nazi Germany when they opened a branch in London. (Image: Courtesy of Nicholas Rose)

But according to grandson Nicholas Rose whose book on the Ackermans From Berlin to Bittermints was published by The Choir Press earlier this year, they had to demonstrate catering skills.

"This is how both Lotte and Werner – who had hitherto been incapable of more than boiling an egg – came to spend a year in the Kempinski kitchens on Kurfürstendamm from April 1935," he says.

"Lotte trained as a pastry cook making after-dinner chocolates and petits fours, while Werner was taught how to produce Baumkuchen."

The following year they moved to a flat in Thurlow Road, Hampstead with the Kempinskis living above them.

While Lotte went to work in the restaurant, Werner started making Baumkuchen in their flat on a bulky machine that he had brought over from Germany.

But the lower gas pressure in Britain affected the moisture levels of his cakes and there were few takers for his upmarket product.

Then like thousands of German speaking emigres, at the outbreak of war in 1940 he was interned on the Isle of Man as an "enemy alien".

He was only released after he signed up for the Pioneer Corps and it was while he was away at war that Lotte started a side business making chocolates.

Although both sugar and cocoa were rationed in Britain, fellow-refugee Max Weldon was in the cocoa trade and had family contacts with the firm of Caxton, which specialised in industrial chocolate or "couverture".

Lotte began production on her kitchen table, assisted by other refugee women and sold the finished product around their community.

After Werner was demobilised in August 1945, the couple devoted themselves to the business full-time and exploited the gap in the market for continental dark chocolate confectionery.

In a room in Fairfax Mews off Finchley Road, a ‘dipper’ would help Lotte produce chocolates full-time, while Werner served customers.

In 1952 the Ackermans opened their first proper shop in Kensington Church Street. It came just in time for the lifting of chocolate rationing in 1953.

Werner ensured the store caught the eye with a theatrical shop window which drew a discerning clientele and in 1956 they opened a second shop at 9 Goldhurst Terrace off Finchley Road - and transferred production to the basement.

The chocolate display at Ackermans which specialised in dark continental chocolates and had shops in Kensington and Goldhurst Terrace, off Finchley Road. (Image: Courtesy of Nicholas Rose)

Their focus on dark chocolate - the English traditionally preferred milk - and continental specialities such as marzipan helped them stand out, and the shop became known to the Royal Family.

Princess Alexandra, the Queen’s cousin who lived in Kensington Palace, was the first to discover Ackermans, often shopping at the Kensington store in person.

Later, Princess Margaret and the Queen Mother became regular customers.

Nicholas says: "Chocolate assortments would be hand-delivered to both Kensington Palace and Clarence House on request and as a result, the Ackermans were awarded the Royal Warrant in 1968.

"Packaging could now proudly carry the royal crest and inscription 'Confectioners by Appointment to HM Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother'."

Queues would form outside the chocolate shop off Finchley Road in the run up to significant holidays. (Image: Courtesy of Nicholas Rose)

At peak times of the year, long queues would form outside the Goldhurst Terrace shop which become a magnet for the émigré community.

Nicholas adds: "Lotte was an outstanding chocolatier who knew how to achieve the slightly glossy appearance and full bouquet that marks out the best chocolate.

"Werner, who loved meeting his customers, was hopeless at wrapping and wisely assembled a team of refugee assistants to serve behind the counter."

By 1978 his grandparents were well over 70 and still working, despite both having heart conditions.

They took the decision to retire and sell up to a young Swiss patissier, Werner Krattiger, whom they had taken on as a trainee.

Lotte and Werner Ackerman sold up to an employee who they had trained up. (Image: Courtesy of Nicholas Rose)

Krattiger expanded the business, retaining the Goldhurst Terrace shop but moving production to an industrial estate in Camden.

There he produced 4,000 kilos of chocolates a week, a far cry from the roughly hundred kilos that Lotte and her team had made.

Tragically, Krattiger contracted Aids and died in 1992 aged 42. His will established a trust to continue Ackermans Chocolates, with part of the profits going to Aids research.

The business developed tie-ups with overseas partners, resulting in Ackermans being on sale for a time in Berlin’s KaDeWe, the Harrods of Germany.

"What a pity that my grandparents did not live long enough to savour this moment," says Nicholas.

In 1996 the future King Charles visited the revamped Selfridges Food Hall, where Ackermans had a concession.

They were consequently awarded a contract to supply his Duchy Originals range with their signature mint thins, a confection Lotte created and according to Nicholas was "her greatest legacy to the British chocolate industry".

The sign outside Ackermans chocolate shop in Goldhurst Terrace now takes pride of place in their grandson's kitchen. (Image: Courtesy of Nicholas Rose)

In the late 1990s Charbonnel et Walker bought a majority stake in the business, retaining the Ackermans name for a time.

But after the Queen Mother’s death in 2002, the Royal Warrant was withdrawn and the brand, and the Goldhurst Terrace shop disappeared.

Nicholas adds: "My brother Michael had the presence of mind to go when the premises were being refurbished and salvage the Ackermans shop sign that hung over the door.

"It now has pride of place in his kitchen, bringing back sweet memories of our grandparents and their achievements."